About Jason Backe

Over the last decade, Jason Backe has established himself as a highly accomplished color artist. He is one of the most sought after hair colorists in New York and his appointment book at ted gibson salon, which he co-owns with partner Ted Gibson, is always full. More >>

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Commenter Crisis: Tennischick5551

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I received this question in the form of a youtube comment on a video I posted at HueManJason about Color Oops and the results expected. Here is Tennischick5551's commenter crisis:

Hey Jason!

So I dyed my hair black with a semi-permanent dye in September and it said it comes out in 28 washes but...they lied. I still have it and it's mid-November!! It is still pitch black! My natural hair color is a dirty blonde--if I use Color Oops, will it make my hair dirty blonde again or if it will come out orange??? I'm at boarding school and I really don't want to go home at Thanksgiving with black hair! My mom'll freak!! So please HELP!!!! Thanks!!! :) -Tennischick5551

Hi Tennischick5551!

There are a couple of really great points here Tennischick551! The first thing I want all of you kitchen beauticians to please remember is the two level rule. If you are expecting the results described on the packaging (here the promise of washing out in 28 shampoos) you can only change your color two levels lighter or two levels darker than your starting color (that means if you describe your color as a dirty blonde, I would guess that means around a medium ash blonde, it is recommended that you only color as dark as light brown). When you follow this rule, you will have results closer to those listed on the packaging.

For the Color Oops question....hmmmm. I don't know. Hahahah - sorry if that isn't very helpful but I have only experimented with the product twice and one of the times is in my video. I would guess that your concern is correct. When hair is colored darker, there is oftentimes a lot of red and orange in the base color to make sure the end result doesn't come out too ashy. When the black or dark brown colors are removed, it exposes the red and orange left in the hair. If I were in your situation, I would try the Color Oops and let it lighten to the level of lightness your original color was (remember to only apply the product from the line of demarcation to the ends and you may need to apply more than once). If after you lighten the color, it is orange you can follow up with a demi permanent color (like Natural Instincts) in a medium ash blonde. That will neutralize the orange and leave your hair in a neutral to golden blonde.

I would love to see a before and after!!! Shoot me an email so I can see the results--very exciting. LMK!

-Jason

Sample Self Evaluation

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Before: Lisa hated her hair color.

When I asked her during her consultation what she liked about it she said "Nothing!" I said what do you dislike about it--she said "Everything!" I asked her how she would want her friends to describe her, blonde, brunette, redhead--she said "I don't care as long as I feel pretty." I asked how often she wanted to be in the salon and she said every 6 to 8 weeks. She also brought in a photo of herself from about ten years ago as a blonde. She told me she always felt the prettiest as a blonde and has tried to do so many shades over the last ten years and just hasn't been happy. Although the color she had was not a bad color - meaning it was done well-I thought it sucked all the color out of her skin, aged her and exaggerated the pink tones in her complexion. I knew that if she were going to be a blond we would have to go for something neutral to sandy (not a lot of gold) to minimize the pink in her skin and that would take a lot of time, a lot of money and she would have to be in the salon every 3-4 weeks to have her color done. It may also really compromise the integrity of her hair. I also knew that a coppery strawberry blond would minimize the pink in her skin and make her blue eyes sparkle. After weighing both options and having some serious dialogue, we decided to go for the coppery strawberry blond.

What I did:

I used Platinum with 20 volume and did a full head of highlights in a herringbone pattern starting in the nape working my way to the crown. When I moved to the sides, I did diagonal placements following the shape of the hairline. Through the top I did a herringbone pattern following the shape of her front hairline until it met at the crown in the back. My weave varied throughout the entire application, I wanted to see bold pieces mixed in with medium pieces and I also wanted some very fine weaves and slices to diffuse into the previous base color to make it appear lighter. I processed the highlights under the rollerball until they were pale yellow, between a level 8 and 9. When we went back to the shampoo bowl, I wet her hair, mixed a color cleanse with 20volume and applied it from scalp to ends. I let this process until the base softened slightly, the darkness was off the ends and I got about 1 level of lift. After shampooing and towel drying, I mixed a gloss of Hi-Richesse, 1/3 7.43 and 2/3 8.3 with 15volume. I applied it from scalp to ends and let it process, while watching it, until it was pretty--about 20 minutes. I shampooed, conditioned and dried her hair. I also used Majarel 8.3 with 30 volume on her eyebrows for three minutes to have them blend with her new color.

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After:

Lisa was thrilled with the results. She felt like she had a dramatic change that wasn't too drastic. She felt like her new hair color was special and that it looked expensive and natural. She also commented on how pretty her eyes looked and how she doesn't think she will need to wear as much makeup because her skin wasn't so washed out looking.

What I learned:


1. This was a great example of how in three easy steps --highlights, color cleanse and gloss--I could really make a huge change for someone without breaking the bank or taking a full day to do

2. I really used my communication skills to figure out how I could meet her expectations. The consultation started off really frustrating because she kept telling me to do what I want because I am the expert. I figured out a way to take what she was saying and bring her to a place where she loved her hair

3. I also learned that being patient and taking my time during the consultation will help me to be thorough enough and get clear enough to make choices that will make my work smooth and fun

What I would do differently:


1. I would have made the gloss a little deeper in the back and a left it as is on the top to add a little more dimension

2. I would have added a frame highlight to give it even a little more sparkle and brightness through the front.

3. She was so eager to purchase the shampoos and conditioners I recommended, I should have sold her Ted Gibson Hair Sheets, too!!!

Intercoiffure Inspires!

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Last week, I was invited by L'Oreal to be their guest at the Intercoiffure luncheon at the Waldorf Astoria Hotel in New York City. It wasn't my first time at the event, which is always a showing of who's who in the hairdressing industry.

This time around the crowd was great! Oribe (who is on the cover of this month's American Salon magazine--in the pic above, I'm with Lori Morris, editor for the magazine), Vivienne Mackinder, Malcolm Edwards of L'Oreal, Nick Arrojo and John Paul Dejoria of Paul Mitchell were there along with my friend Scott Buchanan, owner of the Scott J Aveda Concept Salons. In addition to being one of the most successful people in the industry Scott has always been a huge inspiration to me as a man, a professional and an entrepreneur. The presentations done by L'Oreal, Paul Mitchell and Gina Khan, the spokesperson for Logics, were pretty incredible and I captured some of the models on my Flip camera to show you.

John Paul said something that really inspired me and I have repeated it to my staff, my clients and myself at least a thousand times. "The difference between successful people and unsuccessful people is simple. Successful people are willing to do all of the things unsuccessful people aren't willing to do." Every time I clean the toilet at the salon or get up at 5:00 am to take the train to the salon in DC, I remind myself it is all contributing to my future success--and I am so grateful for it.

When you watch the video you can see the passion, inspiration, vision and talent all of these people share. The hair is sometimes a little over the top, but it is intended to be. The hair is transformed into gigantic ribbons that look like sheets of wood or intricate ropes tied into up-dos--not so hairdressers will literally bring that to the salon, but to show us there are no limits. It was very exciting and so much fun to be invited.

What was the last quote or phrase you heard that really inspired you? I'm interested to hear--LMK.

My New Favorite Product

About a week ago I got a package messengered to me at the Ted Gibson Salon here in New York. When I opened it, I was surprised to see a note describing this new product and about 12 samples in various shades. It is called Touch Back - it is a temporary hair color that comes in a "marker" so you can literally color over your new growth to hide your grays!

I was completely inspired by the idea and couldn't wait to test it out. I grabbed my Flip camera and hit the streets! I made it my goal to try this out on as many people as I could - men, women whoever would let me!

I have to say - the product is genius. You know what I mean, the kind of product that when you see it your like "Why didn't I think of that?" It is so easy to use and there is no risk! It applies quickly and easily - it even comes with a small comb to hold the hair s you are targeting in place and prevent you from coloring your scalp. The shade selection is so simple and the coverage is amazing! It dries quickly and doesn't flake or feel sticky and you can even brush through it when you are finished. Basically you can hide your grays before a date or a meeting in less than 3 minutes - like I said - GENIUS!!!

I can't wait for you to try it out and see how it works for you - make sure to LMK!

Whatever You Think--You're the Expert

If I had a nickel for every time I heard that, I would not have to fly commercial airlines anymore! It happens all the time: A first-time guest sits in my chair and I get the ultimate hair color responsibility requested of me. "Do whatever you want Jason" or "I know what you think is best Jason" or "You're the expert Jason." I am always flattered that someone who has never met me before trusts me implicitly with her hair color. And at the exact same time, it can scare the pants off me!!!

When I was a novice colorist, I would take those statements and run with them, coming up with the most adventurous hair color scenarios I could fathom I would pour my heart and soul into giving these women the hair color of their lives. Ultimately, I would finish and hear one of two things: "Jason! You are a genius, this is AMAZING!" or "Jason! You just completely ruined my hair!!!" The latter was usually uttered through sobs.

Now, years later, I have matured as an artist and have fine-tuned my craft so that I can deliver results that meet or hopefully exceed guest expectations. I have learned that what I think is pretty may not necessarily be received as such by a customer. Ultimately it doesn't matter how much I love it--I'm not the one wearing it, you are. I have also gained the confidence to know that everything I do is beautiful--even if you don't think so! If that is the case I can easily change it into something else I love, that you will love too.

During this long, sometimes painful period (which really never ends--shock, shock) I have come up with a few simple questions to guarantee I am on the same page as my guest. These questions are very valuable for you to communicate more effectively with your colorist or stylist and get you the results you are looking for.


• What do you like about your hair now?


• What do you dislike about your hair now?


• What have you done to your hair in the past that you absolutely never want to repeat?


• What was your hair like during your prettiest moment?


• When you see your girlfriends, do you want them to notice you changed your color?


• When you are described by a stranger do you want them to say you are a blond, a brunette or a red head?


• How often do want to be in the salon? Every three weeks, every six weeks, every 12 weeks?



Try them on for size - these simple questions will guide you down the path of pretty hair color. I'd love to hear a story from you on how they worked (or didn't....) LMK.