HUEman Behavior

HUEman Behavior

by DailyMakeover

Suck It Up: A Lesson For All At-Home Colorists

Like I said in the Worst Thing Ever post, there is nothing worse than hair color that goes from lighter at the scalp to darker on the ends. One of the main causes of this color catastrophe is contributed to porosity. Porosity is the ability for something to absorb moisture. As an example, a sponge is very porous and a piece of glass is not porous. That’s a basic analogy, but you get the point. Now that we have the definition covered – how does it relate to your hair?

To understand how porosity relates to hair, you may need to know the structure of hair. Here is simple hair composition 101 for you: First, there is the cuticle, the outside layer of the hair shaft which is made up of scale-like cells. Just under the cuticle is the cortex which is what gives strength and elasticity to the hair and because it also contains the melanin (pigment), it gives hair its color too. Finally, in the very center of the hair shaft lies the medulla, which isn’t so important for what we are talking about.

When hair is exposed to the elements–heat styling, chemical services or friction–the cuticle opens. It’s sort of like a pine-cone. When a pine-cone is fresh on the tree it is closed, but when it is exposed to the elements, it opens up. The more the pine-cone is exposed, the more it continues to open. The more we expose the hair cuticle to the elements, the more it opens. The more it opens, the more porous the hair becomes – PHEW! What a lesson.

Why is all of this important (or hopefully, at the very least, interesting) for the at-home colorist? Because understanding porosity can help guarantee that your end result looks salon fabulous! If your hair is to the shoulders or longer, chemically treated or heat-styled daily, there is a good chance you have some porosity issues. Porous hair sucks up color, thus causing the ends to look more matte, opaque or dark than the less porous mid-shaft and root areas. And this is how your roots can look lighter than the ends – the worst thing ever!

Look for my upcoming post called Balance It Out for tips and tricks on how to conquer porosity and achieve balanced hair color from roots to ends!

Did you learn something?

LMK – Jason

Hot Headed: A problem with deep roots.

Tell me if you’ve ever experienced this conundrum: You’ve been a very busy girl – leading the glamorous life, the career life or the chasing-after-your-kids life (or a combination of any of the above!!) and, all of a sudden, you notice you’ve let your new growth (roots) get much longer than you normally do. You run down to the store and pick up your usual shade, the one you love, the same as always. Maybe you booked an appointment with your fave hair guy (gal) and rush down to the salon for your usual fix. After the process is complete and your hair is dry, you take a look in the mirror only to notice a shocking vibrancy at the scalp! What happened?!?! It is the same formula, the same application, the same processing time, the same everything! Believe it or not dear, you are hot headed.

It is a fact for all of us and I’m going to let you in on the secret. Our scalp generates heat. Because of this rarely considered (for the at home colorist) and sometimes forgotten (for the salon colorist) fact, your usual dye formulation can leave you with hot roots when you have excessive new growth. The heat that comes from the scalp can make the hair color react differently at the scalp than it processes as little as a half inch away from the scalp.

For consistent, gorgeous, salon-looking results you should color you new growth every three to four weeks. When you let more than the recommended time pass by between coloring, you are setting yourself up for hot roots or color banding (when you can see horizontal stripes in color variation on the hair shaft). What do you do if your life style is insane and you get a couple of weeks behind? Look for my next post, Balance it Out, for some tips and tricks!

Have you had trouble with hot roots?

LMK- Jason

The Worst Thing EVER

For the record – I have to let all of you know there is one thing I believe to be the worst thing EVER! I despise, with a passion, hair color that goes from lighter at the scalp to darker on the ends. This dilemma can take your pure hearted beauty intentions and turn it into a downright disaster. Come on ladies, you all know what I’m talking about – it is quintessentially the dead give away of color treated hair. Because I feel it is my CBD (civic beauty duty) to point out this eye-sore, I am compelled to share some easy tips with you that will guarantee success in your hair coloring adventures.

Pointing out simple tips…well that, at least, is how I began this entry. I started listing and writing and listing and writing compiling a whole list of tricks of the trade the pro’s always take into consideration. Quickly I discovered I could turn one blog entry into a hair color novel or even an encyclopedia. When I was reviewing my work I realized I could no longer consider this a one shot deal. I stopped right there and decided to create a series. Multiple episodes of digestible tips I use in the salon everyday that will ultimately help you in your color journey. Over the next several days I will share with you a veritable tri-fecta in balanced hair color: Suck it up, a plunge into porosity; Hot Headed, an explanation of hot roots and Balance it out, some simple tricks you can do at home for balanced color from roots to ends.

As always, I look forward to your questions and comments. They continue to inspire me. LMK- Jason

Box or Not – Part 2

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Meet Marina

Man-o-man! Do I love a makeover!!! Just to refresh your memory, a post or two ago I mentioned that about 10 women were coming to the Ted Gibson Salon here in NYC to have makeovers with me and Clairol’s new product Nice’n Easy Perfect10. Just to tell you a little about the product – it’s a revolutionary hair color. If you’re thinking “Yea, yea, yea, I heard that before” pinch yourself – it’s true. I too was a skeptic….Perfect10 claims to give head turning shine, salon quality color, beautiful grey coverage, 46% less damage to the hair and a ten minute processing time! Let me tell you – time after time, makeover after makeover, I have found it all to be true! Take a look at this…..

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Meet Marina. This lovely lady had some issues with hair color and I might add trust.

Marina has been living in New York City for many years. The entire time she has been here, she has flown back to her colorist in Germany to have her hair colored because no one in New York could get it right. She had never colored her hair from a box and was highly suspicious of my intentions. After a lengthy conversation, it came down to this, “Marina, either you trust me and we do this or you don’t and we don’t.” Ultimately, she did and we did! 

I had Marina choose her shade from my collection and she was drawn to 7.5A, Medium Ash Blonde. I had to agree, her choice was perfect. We efficiently applied the color and set the timer for 10 minutes – we rinsed and dried her hair and tadah!!

The result speaks for itself – 100% grey coverage and a gorgeous, shiny, healthy looking end result. And come on, if that smile doesn’t tell you she loves it…what will? LMK – Jason

Any product I mention in HUEman Behavior is one that I’ve tested out myself and is in accordance with Daily Makeover’s Editorial Ethics Pledge.

Box or not?

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For about a million years there have been two fundamentally different camps as far as hair color is concerned. First there is Camp A. Camp A is comprised of the women who color their hair in the salon, consider it a necessity (luxury or not) and would never consider another alternative. Camp B on the other hand is the women who choose the convenient, economic and practical route of purchasing their hair color over the counter. I have also discovered the A/B Camp. This is a particularly interesting group as they have a mixed loyalty. Anyone belonging to the A/B Camp generally enjoys the salon experience and having her color done professionally BUT is not only unafraid to use box color – she can be impulsively inspired to do it!  

I guess if I were to classify myself I would have to say I am a 100% committed member of the A/B group! As a salon colorist for a long time (after 10 years I decided to just start saying “a long time” instead of really dating myself) I am a total believer in salon hair color. At exactly the same time, as the Color Director for Clairol (a position I am thrilled, honored and grateful to hold) I am also a firm believer in at home hair color.

I am a fortunate guy. I get to do what I love. I get to play with the best products in the world (consumer to professional) and I get to apply them to some of the most beautiful women in the world (my mom and sister to models and celebrities). Tonight, I have invited 10 women into the ted gibson salon here in NYC to play with Clairol’s Perfect10 hair color. I will take some before and after pictures and share them you – along with some tips and tricks and “out of the box” ideas about at home color. It will be super fun and very exciting!!!

So, which camp are you? LMK – Jason

Any product I mention in HUEman Behavior is one that I’ve tested out myself and is in accordance with Daily Makeover’s Editorial Ethics Pledge.

Ribbons – It’s a Fine Line Between Chunky and Cheap

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After nearly a decade of avoiding them at all costs, not only am I ready for it, I have jumped in both feet first and started preaching chunky highlights. There. I let my secret out. You may be reading this fondly – or not so fondly – recalling images of Lisa Marie Presley or Kelly Clarkson during her American Idol days, but I’m ready and willing to take the plunge. I was inspired one day by watching some re-run of a mid-90′s sit-com and it hit me like a ton of bricks: I LOVE THOSE CHUNKY HIGHLIGHTS!!

I immediately had to start applying them to my guests at the ted gibson salon here in NYC. The challenge however is to get the girls to actually try it. (I can’t say I blame them as I have been quite adamant in steering them in another direction.) The first step was to change the terminology so I’ve gone from chunky to ribbons. Doesn’t that sound pretty, mmm who wouldn’t want that?! 

Truth be told it is a very fine line between chunky and cheap so the trick is to make the ribbons modern. I love bold pieces of tone on tone color like I did for Lake Bell (shown at left) when she was doing press for What Happens in Vegas Stays in Vegas. I love to see that strong variation coming from the interior of the hair instead of right off the part. I think ribbons are a modern, sexy, approach for a new take on an old…favorite? What do you think? LMK – Jason

Brunettes Are Not A Bore

Anne Hathaway

How many times have we heard it – Blondes have more fun. Is it really the case? Research done by the folks at Clairol shows browns are definitely the top sellers right now. According to Clairol data over the past six years, they’ve seen brown overtake blonde as the number one shade family. I know I’ve seen the trend myself at the salon – especially this time of year. Women are trading in their summer blond bombshell tresses for the sophisticated glamour brunettes have a about them. 

An interesting point about brunettes is that they can easily mix two elements that many times are difficult to combine – warm and chic. It’s important to stay modern when going brunette. A really solid opaque color can look heavy and dated. Keep it fresh by introducing subtle variations with tone on tone highlights for depth and dimension. When I colored Anne Hathaway‘s hair for the premier of Rachel Getting Married the words she used during her consultation were rich, warm and deep. I think she nailed it. What do you think? LMK – Jason

Photo copyright Getty Images.