How To Groom Your Brows

Anastasia Soare, widely referred to as the Beauty Innovator and Definitive Brow Expert, answered some of StyleCaster‘s burning questions on the art of brow shaping.

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Brows have most definitely evolved over the years, and we’ve gone through plenty of different phases – from wanting super thin brows to letting the fur above our eyes grow into bushes inspired by Brooke Shields back in the Eighties. To help steer us on the right path when it comes to all things brow related, we of course went to the experts.

Anastasia Soare, owner of Anastasia Beverly Hills and a brow product line of the same name, chats with us below about how to fix, shape and maintain our brows. Read on!

StyleCaster: How can you correct brows that are over-plucked?
Anastasia Soare:
Many women have over-plucked and have sparse patches from over-plucking in the past, but I have a Brow Enhancing Serum in my product line that helps correct that. It contains a unique blend of proteins and vitamins designed to condition eyebrow hair and promote fuller brows. Using this serum twice daily will help brow hair start growing again in as little as one to two months.

How can you highlight naturally light brows?
Use a Tinted Brow Gel; it’s easier and safer than dyeing them which can result in odd coloring. We offer five shades so there is something for everyone.

What is the best brow shape for different face shapes?
Round faces have to stay away from overly thin brows – a thicker brow will be slimming for the face. Square faces need more lift in order to create more of a round/oval effect (think Angelina Jolie), and a thinner and more prominently arched brow creates that look. Oval faces should stay with a medium arch that isn’t too long at the ends in order to open up the face.

What is the best method for shaping eyebrows?

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I always prefer waxing myself, but tweezing is great for light clean up and home use. I don’t recommend threading as there is no way to control the shape without the use of a guide. I realize that it’s popular in the Middle East and India and gives beautiful results, but what I do know from my own clients from that region is that they tend to have very full and thick brows so there is lots of room to work with. Eight percent of my first-time clients are over-tweezed and have thin brows, so threading could result in an even thinner arch.

You have a line of brow stencils – how do you use these products?
There are five arch shapes that come with my Stencils. Choose the stencil that aligns with both the front and the tail of the brow (points A and B) and has as much of your natural brow hair inside the brow cutout as possible. A is the point through the center of the nostril directly up to where it intersects the end point of the stencil cutout. B is the point through the edge of the nose diagonally to the opposite end of the stencil cutout. Hold the stencil flat against your face with one hand, and with the other fill in the arch with a Brow Powder Duo using an angled brush. Remove the stencil and wax or pluck the hairs that were not filled in.

When you’re shading in your brows, how can you determine the correct brow shade?
The correct brow shade is two shades darker for light blonds and redheads and two shades lighter for dark brunettes. Medium brown and light brown should stay one shade lighter if not the same.

One of the hardest parts about tweezing at home is deciding when to stop tweezing. Where should eyebrows begin? And where should they end?
Where the eyebrow begins and ends is equally important as the high point. Through my studies in college, I discovered that an eyebrow could be shaped according to the Golden Ratio by establishing three precise points: one that lies on an imaginary line running vertically through the middle of the nostril; the high point on the eyebrow arch, which can be found on a line connecting the tip of the nose to the center of the iris; and finally the point that lies on a line running through the edge of the corresponding nostril through the outer edge of the eye. The high point divides the eyebrow arch in precisely the Golden Ratio.

How can you maintain your eyebrows at home?
To avoid over-plucking, you should only bring out the tweezers for a DIY touch up once a week!

Anastasia Soare has achieved iconic status in the beauty industry for her unique way of shaping the eyebrows and enhancing the eye area over the years. Anastasia’s Beverly Hills and Brentwood, CA salons have built on a steady flow of celebrity clientele which includes the likes of Oprah, Madonna, Jennifer Lopez, Naomi Campbell, Jada Pinkett Smith, Lara Flynn Boyle, Penelope Cruz and others. Anastasia has been featured in the pages of top publications like Vogue, W, Town & Country, Elle, InStyle, Allure, Entertainment Weekly, Newsweek and People.

Contributed by: Rachel Adler

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